France: Saturday, Sept 5

I awoked tired and wanting to sleep more, but then suddenly remembered the farmer's market happening in town that morning. My mother had gone with my aunt and uncle (Suzanne and Francois). I realized that my mother and her brother were in there hometown together and that I was probably missing some good photo opportunities with the both of them. I started hurrying to get ready, but unfortunately they returned shortly after. Nonetheless, Charles and I still went to the market as we wanted to see the scene and what it had to offer. The mistral winds had started kicking up so even though it was a sunny day, I donned a hat and scarf for the cool winds. The market was in full swing when we got there, complete with a couple of street musicians, wares for sale and tons of region specific foods. Cheeses and meats of all kinds, but also vegetables, pastries and preserves. We figured it didn't make sense to buy even more cheese than there was at home already, but still couldn't resist buying a tiny container of fresh, non-aged goat cheese, just to see what it would taste like.

It was nice to just relax and wander the streets with no particular agenda for that day. We passed an old hotel that caught my eye. I peered briefly though the window. I didn't realize it at the time, but it turned out to be the hotel were my mother and I stayed in town when I was a kid. We also passed a dry fountain where the day before my mother had told us that near the fountain there used to be a wall. This was the wall she and her mother passed one day during the war when suddenly her mother threw her apron over my mother's head. This was so my mother could not witness the death of several men about to be executed by a German firing squad.

After only a day and a half I was already becoming familiar with some of the streets. We ended up in a sort of cul-de-sac where two small boys were playing. One had a long stick he was using to block entrance to the area. As we approached, I asked if we were permitted to pass. He said I had to have a passport. I said I did have one, but then he said I also needed a password. I didn't have the secret password, but he let us by anyway. Somehow, this still reminded me of games children would play during the war some 65 years before.

We got hungry for lunch and found a creperie with an open storefront. I was amused at the menu which, in addition to offering such things as an escargot crepe, also had a specialty with frogs legs. It was called Le Kermitte. We decided on your run of the mill ham, cheese and egg crepes while listening to the strains of the Red Hot Chili Peppers singing Californication in the distance from someone's apartment. I think I would have preferred the accordion player from the the market earlier. After lunch, we returned home (especially since things turn into a ghost town after everything closes after lunch). We found my uncle and aunt having their afternoon coffee (essentially expresso) that wakes them from their afternoon naps. They have it in the living room with old-fashioned tray, coffee pot and demi-tasse cups. Along with the coffee, they also have a square or two of very good quality dark chocolate. This is a ritual they practice each day.

My mother, Charles and I walked down the road from my uncle's to see his neighbor, Helene. Helene was a childhood friend of my mother's. They last saw each other 8 years ago during my grandmother's funeral. We sat and talked with Helene and her husband in their beautiful home. Helene's son was in the process of dying from cancer so she was understandably sad at times, yet still happy to see my mother. I translated as best I could for Charles so he could also be a part of the conversation.

We returned to my uncle's house just after he and Suzanne had sat down to watch the family videos I had uploaded to YouTube for him to see. One was of my grandmother Agnes just 6 months before her passing. My brother had visited her and videotaped their visit in 2001. By the look on my uncle's face, this had been a hard video to watch. But he was still interested in having a copy of it on disk for himself. His son Laurent, a sound engineer, may be able to convert the format so they can watch it in France.

Later on, Charles and I decided to walk to the local supermarket to get a couple of items and just see what sort of things they have in their stores that might be different than ours back home. Charles was interested in the various liquors available and I was fascinated by the kiddie-sized toilet paper for smaller butts. I bought tissue packets and Charles bought a canned beer. And we enjoyed a simple afternoon walking back to my uncle's house.

After dinner, my uncle produced his collection of liquors and after-dinner aperitifs for us to sample. I think this was another bonding moment for us. He told us he'd like to take us on a little hike the next day in a town about 20 minutes away....